The Evolution of Strength & Softness
By Josie NeJame
The Balmain woman is a beautiful, confident, sexy, and an unapologetic troublemaker. She moves with a fearless attitude, always commanding attention without seeking permission. She’s daring and strong, effortlessly exuding sensuality, but this season signals a shift—introducing soft, cocoon-like silhouettes and stepping away from creative director Olivier Rousteing’s traditionally bold structures. Think rib-knit dresses hugging the body effortlessly, slouchy coats that wrap like a warm embrace, and an overall sense of ease woven into the collection.
This season celebrates Balmain’s legacy while pushing its aesthetic forward. Marking the house’s 80th anniversary, it honors the past while embracing bold reinvention. Signature gowns and intricate embroideries remain, now woven seamlessly with modern elements that redefine tradition with a fresh perspective.
With influences from the refined elegance of the ’50s and ’60s and the bold energy of the ’80s, structured coats take on sculptural volumes, while crocodile embossing and animal prints inject untamed intensity. The fusion of Parisian sophistication and raw organic textures creates a dynamic tension, pushing Balmain into an exciting new era.
The Balmain woman moves with confidence, her wardrobe a balance of strength and sensuality. Utilitarian essentials—peacoats, structured parkas, and cargo-style trousers—offer function and flair, while cashmere and mohair contrast with the tough presence of leather and armor-like embellishments. This collection celebrates power in all its forms—refined, rebellious, and fearless.
The show’s emotional arc was set from the opening musical notes of Kate Bush’s Cloudbusting, filling the space with anticipation and an unshakable belief in the unknown. As structured coats and sculptural silhouettes commanded the runway, Enya’s Boadicea deepened the mood, its haunting melody underscoring the warrior-like presence of the Balmain woman. This moment was further amplified by the unveiling of a breathtaking gold dress, a true highlight of the season. Constructed using thousands of small, hand-assembled resin tiles, it created a stunning 3D crocodile effect that gave the dress a sculptural, armor-like presence. The intricate craftsmanship blended avant-garde innovation with Balmain’s signature opulence. The way light danced off the articulated resin tiles enhanced its powerful and dynamic allure, solidifying it as an unforgettable showpiece, perfectly in sync with the song’s victorious energy.
The color story this season plays with contrast—deep greys and navy provide a timeless foundation, punctuated by vibrant pops of yellow, called Mustard!!!. I was ready to shout out ‘Mustard on the beat’, because these colors brought the rhythm, the energy, and the unexpected edge to the runway. These hues bring an unexpected softness to the collection’s fierce textures. Wild animal motifs roam freely across the runway, from intricately assembled 3D croco-effect dresses to zebra-striped beadwork shimmering on fluid fabrics. Just as the zebra print dress and golden sun origami dress emerged, the Chromatics’ Girls Just Wanna Have Fun filled the air—an anthem of liberation. ‘I want to be the one to walk in the sun, oh girls just want to have fun’—the lyrics perfectly captured the Balmain woman’s spirit as she strode forward, commanding attention with every step.
As I sat front row, taking in the confidence of this collection, the thigh-high aubergine boots paired with a grey sweater and pants instantly transported me to an ’80s Flashdance fantasy. The slouchy, structured balance of it all felt effortlessly cool and powerful. And let’s be real—I live in Orlando, so if you see me at Publix in the frozen goods section rocking these boots, just carry on. I’ll be living my best life, and yes, I will continue to wear them at home with the air condition set below 65.
The orange shearling boots were impossible to ignore, their oversized volume and sculpted wedge commanding attention from every angle. With their bold texture and playful energy, they weren’t just made for walking—they stole the show, especially when paired with a matching coat and bag. And once again, the anthem bag is still the ‘It’ bag of the season. It’s belted, cinched silhouette, makes it effortlessly stylish.
The final walk was set against the Barbarella theme, a nod to a heroine who embodied strength, sensuality, and fearless exploration. Then came the song Wuthering Heights, its haunting refrain—’Let me grab your soul away’—capturing the wild passion of Cathy, a woman who refused to be tamed or silenced. Like Cathy, the Balmain woman is unapologetic in her desires, unrelenting in her confidence, and unwilling to conform, moving through time, space, and fashion with effortless command.
Olivier Rousteing’s vision for Balmain Autumn/Winter 2025 marks an evolution—one where sensuality is redefined, where heritage meets contemporary edge, and where the Balmain woman continues her exploration of style and self-expression.
Watching this collection unfold, I couldn’t help but feel the shift—a celebration of power, yet an embrace of softness. This season wasn’t just about bold statements; it was about depth, emotion, and the kind of confidence that doesn’t need to announce itself to be felt. Balmain has always been a house that thrives on audacity, and this collection proves that audacity can be just as compelling when it whispers instead of roars. And as the final musical note faded, I knew one thing for certain—I was ready to step into this new era of Balmain, boots on, bag in hand, and entirely on my own terms. Always part of the Balmain Army, now Balmain family.
