Olivier Rousteing’s Bold Reflection of Modern Balmain
By Josie NeJame
I had the honor to attend the Balmain show at the Théâtre National de Chaillot in Paris, where Olivier Rousteing’s stunning collection came to life in an unforgettable setting. Rousteing presented Balmain’s highly anticipated Women’s Spring Summer25 collection—a striking reflection of the house’s rich heritage and its forward-looking vision. With the grandeur of the Théâtre National de Chaillot as the backdrop, Rousteing’s designs were a flawless tribute to the brand’s past while signaling a bold leap into the future.
For this SS25 season, Rousteing continues to build upon the distinctive design ethos that has defined Balmain since its inception in 1945. The collection draws inspiration from the extraordinary archives of the house, with a nod to the legendary ‘New French Style’ and the architectural brilliance of Pierre Balmain’s ‘Jolie Madame’ silhouette. But rather than focusing exclusively on the past, Rousteing taps into the codes and styles that he has developed since becoming creative director more than a decade ago. This collection feels intensely personal, bringing elements from his own wardrobe into the spotlight. Rousteing’s signature combination of black leather pants, high-shoulder jackets, and simple tank tops—an outfit he has worn countless times for both runway shows and press engagements—has now been reimagined as part of the daywear offerings.
One of the standout aspects of the collection is the embellishments. Rousteing has always had a fascination with intricate beading and embellishment, and this season, that obsession is on full display. Some of the photo-realistic creations used up to 500,000 beads, with one extraordinary piece even featuring a stunningly detailed likeness of Kylie Jenner’s face—testament to the artistry and precision that define each of Rousteing’s creations.
The collection also remains true to Rousteing’s affinity for tailoring. Iconic elements such as powerful shoulders and angular hips remain, with new, cutting-edge adaptations of the maison’s signature silhouettes. The intricate cuts, structure, and craftsmanship continue to set Balmain apart, reinforcing the timeless elegance of Rousteing’s vision. Rousteing’s love of stripes also made its way into the collection, seen on tweed and pearls, combined with chains, crystals, and mini dresses that emphasized the hips. A particular highlight was a pearl dress that pays homage to Pierre Balmain’s 1950s designs and his beloved ‘Jolie Madame’ silhouette.
The runway showcased a palette of neutral tones—nude, beige, red, and black—highlighted by luxurious textures and fabrics. Accessories, too, played a major role in telling the story. This season, the jewelry took a bold turn, with bracelets, necklaces, and handbags crafted in the shape of perfume bottles. This was a fitting tribute to the house’s legendary fragrances,